It’s wonderful to finally see his vision of the Carven girl—basically a Bonjour Tristesse type who likes her coats belted high and empire style, her skirts full and short, and an expected flash of eroticism with her décolleté framed with a collar—in a presentation-style show on ingénues whose lank hair only enhanced their youthful beauty. Henry of Carven worked those signature pieces, and enriched them with the likes of blanket-wrapped plaid blouses and dresses, roomy shouldered sweaters that finished with a nipped waist, with rococo, almost Fair Isle, patterns running down the sleeves, and yet more fantastic outerwear, with shrunken duffels, Simone de Beauvoir–in-the-library double-breasted forties coats with detachable hoods and leather elbow patches, and goat and rabbit fur fluffing the shoulders and sleeves. It was a strong, confident performance. Some said it wasnt a BAM show, I think its all the way fully trademarked. Just couldn't get enough.
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